Cuffed sleeve and method of making the same



Jan. 9, 1951 s. s. SALTZMAN ET AL 2,537,160

CUFFED SLEEVE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Feb. 8, 1950 2Sheeg-Sheet 1 Shepard S. Sclrzman WVQVTORS' Carl T. Sullivan A T TORNEVS. S. SALTZMAN ET AL CUFFED SLEEVE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Jan. 9,1951 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Feb. 8, 1950 WVENTORS: Shepard S. SaltzmanCarl T. Sullivan- V. m m T A 5 w W Patented Jan. 9, 1951 CUFFED SLEEVEAND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Shepard S. Saltzman, New York, N. Y., andCarl T. Sullivan, Greenville, S. 0., assignors to Simplon CuffCorporation, New York, N. Y.

Application February 8, 1950, Serial No. 143,008

14 Claims.

This invention relates to a garment construction. More particularly, theinvention concerns a combination sleeve and cuff for shirts or the likeand a method of making the same.

In making cuffs for shirt sleeves in the manner conventionally known inthe art, as many as eleven distinct operations are required, includingthe successive assembly and stitching of the inner cufi, outer cuff andliner, turning the cuff inside out, top stitching the cuff, forming thebutton hole, attaching the button, separately gathering the sleeve atone end, and stitching the cuff to the gathered portion of the sleeve,together with intermediate operations such as snapping the sewing threadchain which interconnects successive cuif assemblies and inspection.Accordingly, an object of this invention is to provide an improvedcufied sleeve construction, the manufacture of which permits asubstantial reduction in the number of operations in comparison to thatrequired in making conventional cuffed sleeves.

In the manufacture of known cuffed sleeves, the cuffs are made as aseparate assembly and thereafter stitched to the sleeves, the strengthof attachment of the cuff to the sleeve being dependent upon the skillof the individual operator in forming the attaching seam. As a result,the problem of non-uniformity in workmanship and resultant productfrequently arises, particularly a in connection with mass producedgarments in the lower cost ranges. Therefore, another object of thisinvention is to provide a cuffed sleeve construction wherein the cufi inpart, constitutes an integral portion of the sleeve, thus eliminatingthe possibility of detachment of the cuff from the sleeve due to faultyseaming operations.

A further object of this invention is to provide a cuifed sleeveconstruction which includes a welted upper edge on the outer exposedportion of the cuff together with boxed transverse edges at the oppositesplit ends thereof said welted and boxed edges lending a novel as wellas pleasing, finished appearance to the cuff as a whole.

In forming cuffed sleeves of the conventional type, the joining of thecufi assembly to the sleeve requires a preliminary gathering of thelower end of the sleeve to reduce the transverse cross section thereofto the dimension of the cuff assembly. Such operation, which is manuallyperformedwhile the cuff is being stitched to the sleeve, requiresoperators highly skilled in the art Accordingly, yet another object ofthis invention is to provide a cuifed sleeve construction wherein asleeve member is separately pleated along tion at one end thereof,previous to subsequent operations which cuff the sleeve, the pleatingand cuiling operations being performed by operators of ordinary skill,yet producing a cuffed sleeve of more pleasing appearance than has beenobtained with conventional cuffed sleeve constructions.

Still another object of this invention is to provide a cuffed sleeveconstruction comprising a sleeve member including an extended wristcovering portion at one end thereof and a cuff member disposed over andattached to the wrist covering portion of the sleeve member, the sleevemember being formed from a blank proportioned to provide smooth,unwrinkled surfaces at the wrist covering portion thereof. I

Yet a further object of this invention is to provide a cuffed sleeveconstruction and a method of making the same, which involves a reducednumber of operations, permits the utilization of operators of ordinaryskill, allows the production of garments of uniform workmanship, permitseconomies in manufacture, results in a cuff of novel and pleasingappearance and which is practical to a high degree in use.

Other objects of this invention will in part be obvious and in parthereinafter pointed out.

The invention accordingly consists in the features of construction,combinations of elements, arrangement of parts and procedural steps,which will be exemplified in the construction hereinafter described, andof which the scope of invention will be indicated in the followingclaims.

In the accompanying drawings, in which is shown illustrative embodimentsof the invention;

Fig. 1 is a top plan view of a cufied sleeve embodying the invention;

Fig. 2 is a bottom plan view thereof;

Fig. 3 is a bottom plan view of the cuffed portion of the sleeve inopened up condition;

Fig. 4 is a top plan view thereof;

Fig. 5 is a bottom plan View similar to that shown in Fig. 3, with oneend portion of the cuff member in open, unfolded condition and withparts cut away;

Fig. 6 is a sectional view taken on the line 5-3 of Fig. 4;

Fig. 7 is a sectional view taken on the line 1- of Fig. 4;

Fig. 8 is a top plan view of a cuffed sleeve embodying the invention andillustrating a modification thereof;

Fig. 9 is a perspective view of a device. for assembling and securingtogether the elements of the cuffed sleeve embodying the invention.

Referring in detail to the drawings, A designates a combination sleeveand cuff embodying the invention. The same comprises a sleeve member Itfor a shirt or similar garment, which is provided at one end thereofwith a cuff generally designated as H.

The sleeve member I9 is of generally tubular shape, open at the shoulderend I2 and tapering somewhat in transverse cross section to the wristend I3. The member ID is formed by seaming together the opposite sideedges of a suitably cut fabric blank by a double stitch line B. Themember I comprises peripheral edges I2a, I3a, at the opposite endsthereof. The member I is split longitudinally from edge |3a to a pointI4 intermediate the edges 2a, I3a, thus forming opposed, split edges I5,I 6. An elongated fabric reenforcing strip I1 is suitably folded andstitched about split edge I5 and may extend from point I4 to a pointshort of edge I3a. The marginal portion at split edge I6 may be hemmedas at 3, from the point I4 to edge I3a.

It will be noted that the length of the sleeve member Iii between edgesI2a and Isa, for a given sleeve size, is greater than that of aconventional sleeve member by an amount equal to the width eia cuff. Themember ID thus includes a wrist ,povering portion 25 defined by edge |3aand opposite, end edges 2|, 22, extending from edge I311. The edges 2|,22 merge with split edges I5, l6, respectively.

' Since the sleeve member ID, when attached to a garment such as ashirt, must be of such transverse cross sectional dimensions as toprovide adequate elbow room, the fullness of the member is notsufiiciently reduced at the Wrist end l3, despite the taper of themember. In order to further reduce the transverse cross section ofthemembergatthe wrist end I3, the member is ,fprovidedwithra pluralityof longitudinally extending pleats 23, which may be suitably spaced fromeach other. The pleats 23 extend from edge I3a to points intermediatethe edges I2a, I 3a. The pleats may be varied in number and theirparticular disposition, to suit specific sleeve patterns. The pleats maybe formed by a pressing operation and if desired, may be stitched down.

The thus formed sleeve member I0 is ready to have the cuff II formedthereon. To this end, there is provided a top cuff member 25 in the formof a substantially rectangular strip of fabric, similar to the fabric ofsleeve member H3 and which may be die cut to a predetermined pattern.The member 25 comprises a top edge 2%, a bottom edge 21 and end edges28, 29. There is also provided a substantially rectangular liner member30 of a coarsely woven fabric. The liner 30 has a width corresponding tothe width of the fdesired cuff I I.

The liner member com rises a top edge 3|, a bottom edge 32 and end edges32, 34. The liner member may be provided with tab portions 35 projectinglaterally from the corners thereof, for the purpose hereinafterappearing.

It is understood that the longitudinal dimension of the liner member 39is substantially equal to the corresponding dimension of the wristcovering portion of the sleeve member IE3. The dimensions of the cuffmember are somewhat greater than the corresponding dimensions of theliner member 38, for the reasons hereinafter appearing.

The top cuff member 25 and the liner member are assembled with thepleated s eeve member ID and secured in predetermined relation to the 4wrist covering portion 20 thereof. To this end, there is provided asewing machine I having a pair of suitably spaced needles 2, on the headthereof. Attached to the head of the sewing machine I, is a device 3which includes combined guide and edge folding means 4 and guide means 5disposed beneath means 4. An edge folding device 6 is mounted on thesewing machine, adjacent one of the needles 2.

The liner member 30 is fed into guide means 5 and the cuff member 25 isfed into the combined guide and edge folding means 4. simultaneously,the sleeve member I0 is presented to the sewing machine I, with thewrist covering portion thereof opened in flat condition and with theouter surface thereof, in uppermost position. The edge |3a of the memberIf! is folded upwardly and inwardy by the device 6, upon operation ofthe sewing machine I. Also, the edge folding means 4 folds marginalportions of the edges 26, 21 of the cuff member 25 downwardly andinwardly about edges 3|, 32 of the liner member 30, thus forming exposedfolded edges 48, 4| on the cuff member 25. The action of folding deviceI5 produces an exposed folded edge 42 on the wrist covering portion 20of the sleeve member. The thus assembled cufi member 25 and liner member30 is brought into contact with the upper face of the Wrist coveringportion 20 of the sleeve member by the continued operation of machine I.The device 3 is so disposed that the folded edge 4| of the cuff member25 projects slightly beyond the folded edge 42 of the wrist coveringportion 20. Aso, the liner member 3! is so related to the cuff member 25and to the wrist covering portion 24, that the end edges 33, 34 of theliner member substantially register with the end edges 2|, 22,respectively, of the portion 25, while the end edges 28, 29, of themember 25, project beyond the edges 22, 2|, respectively of the' wristcovering portion 20.

The needles 2 on sewing machine I will form parallel stitch lines 43, 44to secure the cuff member 25 and liner 30 to the portion 20 of sleevemember I0. The stitch line 43 is disposed closely adjacent folded edge42 of the portion 20. The stitch line 44 is disposed somewhat inwardlyof the folded edge 40 on member 25, thus forming a longitudinallyextending welted edge 45 on member 25.

The opposite open ends presented by the end edges of the cuff member 25are finished by boxing the same about the edges 2|, 22 of portion 25. Tothis end, the edge 28 of member 25 is folded inwardly toward edge 22 ofportion 20 but short thereof, forming a transverse folded edge 46 and isagain folded inwardly to form a transverse, exposed folded edge 47,which is parallel to edge 46. The folded edge 41 will substantiallyregister with edge 22 of the portion 20. The projecting portion at theopposite edge 29 of the member 25 i similarly folded about edge 2| ofportion 20 to form an exposed, transversely folded edge 48. The foldedor boxed end portions of the cuff member 25 are secured in place bystitch lines 49 which are disposed inwardly of the folded edges 4'1, 48and extend transversely of stitch lines 43, 44. The boxing operation maybe performed manually or by means of suitable edge folding means inassociation with stitching means.

The cuff II may be completed by providing a button hole 5|! disposedinwardly of edge 4'! while a button 5 is attached at a point inwardly ofedge 48. Thus the split edge portions of the ber ' and dimensioned wristcovering portions.

wrist covering portion and cuff H, may be detachably attached togther,with the finished edges 41, 48-01 the cuff in overlapping relation. Ifdesired, the button 5| 'may be replaced by another button hole 50, toallow the use of links to interengage the split edges of the cuff ll,thus providing French cuffs.

It will be apparent that the cuffed sleeve construction hereinbeforedescribed entails not" more than five separate operations includingpleating the sleeve member, edge folding and sewing the cuff member andliner to the sleeve member, boxing the ends of the cuff member, formingthe button hole and attaching the button. This is in contrast to theeleven operations required in the making of a conventional 'cuifedsleeve. Also, operators of ordinary skill can produce the cuffed sleeveembodying the invention, wher as, skilled operators must be used inmaking cuffed sleeves of the conventional type.

With the wrist covering portion 20 integral with the sleeve member I 6and forming the inner cuff member, there is no danger of detachment ofthe cuff from the sleeve.

The pro ectin tabs 35 on the liner 30 are'disposed between the foldededges 46, 41, 48, of the cuff member at the corners thereof, thusproviding added stiffness and resistance to wear at the corners of thecuff II.

The overall appearance of the cuffed sleeve embodying the invention, isdistinctively enhanced by the novel appearance of the welted edge 45 onthe cuff member and the boxed construction at the split edges thereof.The pleasing appearance of the pleated portions of the sleeve memberadjacent the cuff H, is incontrast with the irregularly disposedgatherings and bunched'eifect found in the cuff-sleeve juncture of usualsleeve constructions.

In Fig. 8 is shown a cuffed sleeve construction embodying the inventionand illustrating a modification thereof. The sleeve construction A issimilar to that previously described except as hereinafter set forth.The construction A comprises a sleeve member ID which is provided at thewrist end thereof with a cuff ll substantially as previously described.

The sleeve member If) is distinguished from sleeve member Iii by theomission of pleats 23. To this end, the member H1 is formed by seamingtogether the opposed edges of a fabric blank which has been cut in amanner to provide in the seamed blank a curved, inwardly turned edge 60.The edge 60 extends from a point intermediate edges l2, l3, to edge 13.member is progressively reduced in transverse section in an amountsufficient to provide a properly dimensioned wrist covering portionwithout the need for pleating. The cuff l l comprising member 25 andliner may be directly applied to the smooth upper surface of theunpleated, wrist covering portion of the sleeve mem- ID' in the mannerpreviously described, omitting the pleating of the sleeve member. By theuse of suitable patterns, the blank for sleeve member It may be cut toprovide correct taper Such a sleeve member not only eliminates anoperation but in addition facilitates the cuffing procedure. 1

Thus the sleeve If desired, the lining fabric 30 may be used in the formof a continuous strip taken from a roll be continuously fed into guideawhile cuff strips 25 are successively fed to the means. 4. The 1011'-gitudinal marginal portions of each of the strips 25 will be foldedabout the liner portion underlying the same, in the manner previouslydescribed. At the same time, sleeve members 'are successively presentedto the machine 'I with the wrist covering portion opened flat. Theindividual assemblies of cuff strip andliner portion are properlyregistered with the sleeve members. This is facilitated by properlyspacing the successive cuff strips relative to the liner fabric. Theassemblies are'stitched to the sleeve members, in succession and thesuccessive cuffed sleeves will be interconnected by the continuous liner30. The cuffed sleeves are thereafter separated by cutting the fabric 30atv appropriate intervals. The projecting ends of the cuifand linerstrips are then suitably trimmed to permit the edges to be boxed aboutthe split edges of the sleeve member, aspreviously described.

This'application contains subject matter common to application Ser. No.62,061, filed November 26, 1948, now abandoned.

It will thus be seen that there is provided .a cuffed sleeve for agarment together'with methods for making the same, in which the severalobjects of this invention are achieved and which is well adapted to meetthe. conditions of practical use.

As various possible'embodiments might be made of the above describedinvention, and as various changes might be made in the embodiments setforth, it is to be understoodthat allmatte'r herein set forth or shownin the accompanying drawings, is to be interpreted as illustrative andnot in a limiting sense. i

Having thus described our invention, we claim as new and desire toprotect by-Letters Patent:

1. A cuffed sleeve construction comprising a tubular fabric sleevemember including a wrist covering portion at one end thereof, saidsleeve member being of reduced transverse cross secti on at. the wristcovering portion thereof, said sleeve member being longitudinally splitat the wrist covering portion thereof to provide a pair of opposededges, a fabric facing strip overlying the outer surface of the wristcovering portion of the sleeve member and including an end portionfolded about each of the split providing edges thereof, and means forsecuring said'strip to said sleeve member.

2. A sleeve and cuif construction comprising a substantially tubularsleeve member tapering in transverse cross section from one end to theother end thereof, said sleeve member including a wrist covering portionof reduced transverse cross .section at one end thereof, said wristcovering portion being split to provide opposed edges, a strip cuifmember on the outer surface of the wrist covering portion of thesleevemember errtending from one split providing edge to the other splitproviding edge thereof, said cuff member including folded marginalportions at the opposite longitudinal edges thereof, the wrist covering.portion of the sleeve member including a folded marginal edge portiondisposed adjacent one. of the foldedmarginal edge portions ofsaid cuffmember and means for securing the cuff member to the wrist coveringportion of the sleeve member.

3. A sleeve and cuff construction comprising a substantially tubularsleeve member including-an integral portion at one end thereof formingan inner cuff member, saidinner cuff member being split .to the edgethereof, a strip outer cuff member on the inner cuff member, said outercuff member including opposite end portions boxed about therespective-split providing edges of the inner cuif member, said outercuff member including folded marginal edge portions extending normallyto the boxed edges thereof, a pair of parallel stitch lines securing theouter cuff member to the inner cuff member, said stitch lines beingdisposed parallel to and inwardly of the folded edges of the outer cuifmember, thereby forming on said outer cufi member a welted inner edgeand a hemmed outer edge opposed to said Welted edge.

4. A sleeve and cuif construction comprising a substantially tubularsleeve member including an integral portion at one end thereof formingan inner cuif member, said inner cuif member being split to the outeredge thereof, an outer cuff member on the inne cuff member, said outercuff member extending to the split providing edges of said inner cuifmember, said outer cuff member including a folded longitudinal edgeportion projecting beyond the outer edge of the inner cuff member andmeans for securing the inner and outer cuff members together.

5. A sleeve and cuff construction as set out in claim 4 and furtherincludin stiffening means disposed between the inner and outer cuffmembers, said stiffening means including portions for additionallystiffening the inner and outer cuif members at their corner portionsadjacent the split providing edges of the inner cuff member.

6. The method of forming a cufied sleeve comprising providing a sleevemember including a split wrist covering portion at one end thereof,disposing the wrist covering portion in an open fiat condition,positioning a strip cuff member over the outer surface of the wristcovering portion of the sleeve member, folding opposite longitudinallyextending marginal portions of the cuff member into contact with saidsleeve member, and stitching the cufi member to the wrist coveringportion of the sleeve member along lines extending parallel to thefolded edges of the cuff member.

'7. The method of forming a cuffed sleeve comprising providing a tubularfabric sleeve including a split wrist covering portion, assembling astrip of cuff fabric and a strip of liner fabric in superposed relationto each other, folding opposite marginal edge portions of the cufffabric about opposite edges of the liner fabric, opening the wristcovering portion of the sleeve to a flat condition, placing theassembled strips of cuff and liner fabric over the wrist coveringportion of the sleeve with the ends of said assembly extending to thesplit edges of said wrist covering portionand securing the assembly tothe Wrist covering portion of the sleeve.

8. The method of forming a cuffed sleeve comprising providing a sleevemember including an extended wrist covering portion at one end thereof,said wrist covering portion being split to the outer edge thereof,providing a liner member and a strip cuff member having a length greaterthan the length of the wrist covering portion of the sleeve memberbetween the split edges thereof, bringin the cuff and liner members intooverlying relation, folding longitudinal marginal edge portions of thecuff member about longitudinal edges of the liner member, opening thewrist covering portion of the sleeve member to a flat condition,positioning the assembled cuff and liner members on the wrist coveringportion of the sleeve member with the ends of the cuff member projectingbeyond the split edges of the wrist covering portion, securing the cuffmember to the wrist covering portion, folding the projecting endportions of the cuff member about the split edges of the wrist coveringportion and securing the folded portions of the cufi member at the splitedges of the wrist covering portion.

9. A cuffed sleeve construction comprising a sleeve member having awrist covering portion at one end thereof, said Wrist covering portionbeing split to provide a pair of opposed edges, a cuff member coveringthe outer surface of the wrist covering portion, said cuff memberincluding a folded end portion located at each of the respective splitproviding edges of said wrist covering portion and means for securingsaid cuff member to said wrist covering portion.

10. A cuffed sleeve construction as set forth in claim 9 wherein saidcuif member includes a pair of folded marginal edge portions extendingat right angles to the split providing edges of said wrist coveringportion, and said securing means includes a stitch line extendinginwardly of one of said folded marginal edge portions to provide aWelted edge at said marginal edge portion.

11. A cuffed sleeve construction as set forth in claim 9 wherein saidwrist covering portion includes a hemmed edge extending at right anglesto the split providing edges thereof, said cuff member comprising foldedmarginal edge portions extending parallel to the hemmed edge of thewrist covering portion, one of said folded marginal edge portionsprojecting beyond the hemmed edge of the wrist covering portion and saidsecuring means including a stitch line spaced inwardly of said lastmentioned folded marginal edge portion and adjacent the hemmed edge ofsaid Wrist covering portion.

12. A cuffed sleeve construction comprising a sleeve member having anintegral wrist covering portion at one end thereof, said wrist coveringportion including a hemmed edge, and being split to provide edgesextending normally of said hemmed edge, a cuff member covering the outersurface of said wrist covering portion, said cuif member includinginwardly folded, opposite edge portions extending parallel to saidhemmed edge and a folded end portion located at each of the respectivesplit edges of said sleeve member, a plurality of stitch lines extendingparallel to the hemmed edge of said sleeve member for securing said ouifmember to said sleeve member, a stitch line extending parallel to thesplit edges of said sleeve member for securing each of the folded endportions of said cuff member and means located adjacent the respectivesplit edges of said sleeve member for detachably securing adjacentportions of the wrist covering portion of said sleeve member at thesplit edges thereof.

13. The method of forming a cuffed sleeve construction including asleeve member having an integral wrist covering portion at one endthereof, said wrist covering portion being split to provide opposededges and a strip cuff member overlying the wrist covering portion ofthe sleeve member, comprising successively feeding a plurality of sleevemembers to a station with the wrist covering portions thereof open anddisposed in a flat condition, feeding a cuff member into overlyingrelation with the wrist covering portion of each sleeve member, foldinglongitudinally extending opposite marginal edge portions of the cuffmember into contact with the wrist covering portion of the sleeve memberand stitching each, cufl member to a sleeve member along lines parallelto the folded edges of said cuff member.

14. The method as set forth in claim 13 and further including the stepsof folding the opposite ends of each cuff member about the respective 0split forming edges of the wrist covering portion of a sleeve member andstitching the folded ends of said cuff member.

SHEPARD S. SALTZMAN. CARL T. SULLIVAN.

10 REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the fileof this patent:

,. UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 1,426 892 McCoy Aug. 22, 19222,020,070 Liebowitz Nov. 5, 1935

